martian mischief

2010-02-25T09:54:00.000-08:00

Zip Up The Back Sweater comments:

It is your knitting gauge rather than the size of yarn you use that determines size. I use the knitting standards sizing charts. So I ran a few numbers with this pattern, which is almost my favorite. I make a few changes in it.

http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/babyswezipback.ht

As written, it is a size 12 month size sweater, that is 6 st. and 7.5 rows per inch.

At 5.5 stitches per inch, it is a size 18 mo.
At 5 stitches per inch, it is a size 24 months.
Primary difference between a 24 month and a size 2 is in length.

Now for the lengths use ruler measurements rather than the number of rows.

length to underarm, (underarm to waist) for a size 12 mo. is 3.5 and (3.5)
for size 18 mo is 4 and (4)
for size 2 is 4.5 and (4) Ahhhh.... go ahead, make it a 4.5

On the average another 2 inches is added to the length of a sweater for below the waist and then ribbing is added.

So now for your yarn, baby yarn will make a delicate light weight sweater, sport weight will make an average weight sweater with a soft hand. Worsted weight will make a tighter knit, warmer sweater. Choose whatever one you want and then work on your correct stitches per inch.

Note: difference between a 18 mo and a size 2 is 2 inches around the chest and 1 inch in back waist length. 3 inches in sleeve length.

Changes I make to pattern: knit until center front piece is 10.5 inches across. This will lower armholes about 1/2 inch. Measure for sleeve from center back down to cuff. Make it 17 inches and then add a 2 to 3 inch cuff. This will allow you to fold up the cuff at first and then lower it as the child grows. Benefit--another year of wear. This is the size being worn in the photo of my great grandbaby.

Other changes: I use a 2 stitch garter band on both sides of the zipper. Stitch the zipper in by hand with your stitches at the back of the 2 stitch band. Use a back stitch or picking method. This is the exact amount needed to cover the metal part of the zipper and help eliminate the yarn catching in the zipper. I also put a stitch between the increases along the raglan lines. That's just because I like it that way. Please note: the sweater in the picture is sewn together incorrectly. Match the sides of the sweater on both sides of the zipper. One side should not be longer than the other.

How do I know this stuff? You start with 3 children, then you add 12 grandchildren and follow up with 5 great grandchildren. I've knit more sweaters than I can count.

2010-02-24T04:43:00.000-08:00

Here is the pattern I promised you. I will add modifications later. Since today is my birthday, consider it a birthday gift. There is a picture on my 1/21 /07 post, scroll down. I put a teddy bear and pocket on that one and made matching pants.

Zip up the back hoodie

Universal directions for sizes from infant to adult male. (infant, toddler, child, (woman, man, x lge) or 14, 16, 18, (20, 22, 24) inch head sizes)

Measurements needed:

Circumference of head

Circumference of chest at widest part

Back length from neck to waist

Sleeve length from center of neck, across back, down arm with elbow bent to small bone on outside of wrist.

Get yarn estimate for your size from http://www.fiber2yarn.com/info/how_much_yarn.htm add 1 skein for hood.

Purchase zipper before you start, you may have to adjust pattern depending on zipper.length

4 markers

ruler, tape measure can be used but hard ruler is more accurate.

2 sets of needles after sizes determined from gauge swatch

yarn needle for burying yarn tails.

Sewing needle for sewing in zipper.length

thread or yarn for sewing in zipper

Prepare your gauge swatch in stockinette stitch with needles desired. When you have a fabric you like with your yarn, write down the stitches per inch. You will need the needle size you used for your gauge swatch and needles 2 sizes smaller.

Use needles 2 sizes smaller than you used for gauge swatch and cast on head size times stitches per inch. This number should be divisible by 4 plus 2 extra stitches.

Work in k2, p2 ribing for 1 to 2 inches 1, 1, 1 ½ , (1 ½, 2, 2)

Continue in following sequence for pattern:

k10, rib to last 10 stitches, k10
p10, rib to last 10 stitches, p 10
k10, rib to last 10 stitches, k10
k12, rib to last 12 stitches, k12
p12, rib to last 12 stitches p12
k12, rib to last 12 stitches, k12

Continue in these 3 row sequences adding 2 stitches to the knitting section on each end until you have only 2 stitches remaining in ribbed pattern. End on wrong side row, Bind off loosely. You will have 1 stitch remaining on needle.

Pick up5, 6, 7, (7, 8, 8) inches of stitches (stitches per inch from gauge times No. of inches) along side of hood, cast on 2 inches for under the chin, pick up same number of stitches on other side of hood.

Work 1, 1 ½, 1 ½, (2, 2, 2,) inches of ribbing switch to larger size of needles.

Divide stitches into back, sleeve, front, sleeve, back. That is--knit 1/6 of stitches, place marker, knit 1/6 of stitches, place marker, knit 1/3 of stitches, place marker, knit 1/6 of stitches, place marker, knit last 1/6 of stitches.

First row and all subsequent purl rows—k2, purl across to last 2 stitches, k2

Second row *knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1*repeat for a total of 4 times then knit to end

Repeat these 2 rows until measurement across front equals ½ of chest measurement ending with a purl row.

On the next row, knit to marker, drop all markers as you come to them. Slip sleeve stitches on a scrap piece of yarn. Stitch holders will stretch out end stitches so I do not recommend them for this sweater. I just put smooth contrast yarn on yan needle and run it through, tying the ends together loosely.

Cast on 1, 1 ½, 1 ½, (2, 2, 2) inches of stitches under arm, knit across back to next marker, drop marker and place second sleeve on yarn stitch holder, cast on same number of stitches as on first underarm, knit to end.

Continue alternating k 1 row, and k2 stitches, purl to last 2 stitches and k 2 stitches until measurement from base of neck (below ribbing) to bottom is same as back length measurement. Now you will need to add the number of inches below the waist you want for your sweater. Some averages are 2, 2, 3, (4, 6, 6)

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 1, 1 ½, 2, (2, 3, 3) inches bind off

Place sleeves back on needles and pick up stitches on those stitches you cast on under the arms. If necessary, pick up extra stitches in the corners to avoid holes. These extra stitches can be decreased on the next row.

For a full sleeve (recommended for infants, toddlers, and children) knit sleeve to length minus one inch, work one row of k2 together, work k2, p2 ribbing for 3 inches. This gives them a little more grow room on childrens sweaters and will fit adult sweaters.

For a tapered sleeve; determine the size of your wrist times stitches per inch. Subtract this number from the total number of sleeve stitches to determine how many stitches you will need to decrease. Divide this decrease number by 2 to determine how many decrease rows you will need. Measure sweater from center back to end of sleeve while it is on yarn markers, and subtract this from your total sleeve length above. The difference will tell you how many inches you have left to knit. Divide this number by the total number of decrease rows you will have to make. This will tell you the spacing of the decrease rows. In most cases this is around 2 inches. OR......try the program below to do the work for you. If you are not familiar with it, you are in for a treat.

http://www.cara4webshopping.com/freebies_for_fun/knitcomp.htm

Place a marker ar the center under the arms and work in stockinette stitch.

Decrease row: knit to one stitch before marker, k2 tog through back side (needle from right to left), k1, slip marker, k1, k2 together the usual way (needle from left to right), finish row.

When sleeve is worked to length, work 3 inches of k2, p2 ribbing and bind off loosely.

Bury yarn tails

Inserting zipper Close the zipper. Pin zipper in place making sure that ribbing matches across the zipper. If you want the pixie look stretch hood stitches slightly at the top. If you want to avoid pixie look gather stitches at top of hood slightly. Alternately, stitch closed an inch or two at the top of the hood and insert the zipper below the short seam. When zipper is pinned into place......BASTE it. I just use contrast yarn and yarn needle for basting. Now nothing will slip and you can get rid of those sticky pins and concentrate on your stitches. Open up the zipper. Using a back stitch carefully stitch zipper into place with about 4 stitches showing on top per inch and 4 equal spaces showing on top per inch. (bring needle up from inside to outside, insert needle down 1/8 inch behind where you brought needle up, bring needle up ¼ inch in front of this stitch and repeat** I use yarn, matching sewing thread or embroidery thread to do this. Embroidery thread is very strong and comes in over 350 colors. It comes 10 yards in a skein which is enough.

Oops I didn't tell you to sew up the seams. That's because there are none. If you wish you can work sleeves on straight needles and then you will have a seam to sew up. You can also knit this sweater and simply sew up the back seam instead of putting in a zipper or switch it to total circular knitting after stitching up the back of the hood. In those cases I would eliminate the 2 stitch garter rows along the center back.

enjoy

2009-11-09T07:19:00.000-08:00

Here she is! Kahlia was born Friday, November 6, 2009 at 1:17 pm weighing in at 6lb 3 ox and 19 1/2 inches long. She arrived by C-section to Andi with Great Grandma in attendance.

Another view, sitting on Great Grandma's lap. That hospital bracelet, Gaa Gaa is wearing means that she is allowed to visit and take the baby from the nursery. Look at all that hair!

A close up of a pretty face.

A delighted big brother.

When no one was looking, he whispered in her ear: "Now don't you worry, I'll take care of you."

Check out these two photos. Not the best photography, but the first one is Kahlil born three years ago. The second is Kahlia, born Friday.

2009-08-25T16:09:00.000-07:00

2009 is definitely not my best year. I've just been discharged again after spending another month in the hospital and in rehab so that I am mobile again. My energy level is zilch and I have physical therapy at home three times a week. I am improving gradually and hope to be more active soon.

2009-03-30T19:34:00.001-07:00

I've been silent for a long time.

At first I was getting ready for Christmas and getting to know my new great granddaughter. Then between Christmas and New Year's Day, I went into respiratory distress and was rushed into the hospital where I began a serious battle with pneumonia, which almost won. I could only breathe with the help of machines and while propped up on my left elbow.

This was followed by a serious bone marrow depression and I became so ill that I literally saw God. Fortunately, I do not remember much about this time. I do remember looking at my hand and seeing a pale, waxy yellow color with no veins showing. After multiple transfusions and discontinuing all the medications I had been taking, my bone marrow began to grow again slowly. They determined thatI had a reaction to Humira that caused my bone marrow problems and stopping all meds allowed my bone marrow to start to regrow. So slowly they added back the meds I need to survive. The key word here is survive. I am allergic to all the meds known for treatment of arthritis and I have 5 or 6 different types of arthritis. I am surviving but in a great deal of pain. The only things I can take are steroids and Vicodin. This frightens my family because of all the news stories. They say they are afraid I will become addicted. I'm not worried about it. In order to get addicted, you have to take medication beyond what you need for the pain. I never get rid of the pain, so as long as I watch the clock carefully, I will be okay. I also have a few days with minimal pain and I go through them without medication and without withdrawal symptoms.

I also had another admission in February for the flu but that only lasted 3 days. Not the best 3 days of my life, however......LOL

I have lost my ability to walk and now can only take 7 or 8 steps doing the old age shuffle. I don't know if I can learn to walk again. This would be the 8th time I have had to retrain to get upright and I'm not sure it is worth it any more.

I also had a couple of compression fractures in my spine, so no wonder it hurts all the time. There was more going on in there than simple arthritis. It has been 2 months now and the pain is lessening, but I tire so fast. I can only sit an hour or two and can only stand a few minutes.

For the good news, the tremors in my hands are so much less that I can knit again. I haven't been able to do so for over 9 months, but I've managed 4 hats and a pair of mitts since I was discharged. Perhaps now I can knit something for the new babe. She is such a pretty little thing.

2008-09-15T06:47:00.000-07:00

Daddy bonding with Ty. He stood this way for over an hour, his cheeks damp with tears and stared at his daughter. I think he likes her.

2008-09-09T05:05:00.001-07:00

Here she is! TyAjiah June Hayes arrived September 8. Guess who is holding her. I used matriarcal privilege. After all June is my middle name too.

Here are the birthday girls. When asked to be godmother, Cousin Tierra didn't know the baby would be born on her birthday.

Andi is first time Auntie and also the mother of Kahlil.

Here is the family, grandpa, auntie, grandma, dad, mom and babe. Missing is Uncle Tracy who doesn't like hospitals, especially when his sister has surgery.

Who did my hairstyle? I want a redo!

2008-08-24T00:30:00.000-07:00

As you may have heard, we had a huge storm here with lots of lightening, strong winds, and a lot of wind damage. A large tree broke off and went across the alley behind our house, yanking on the power lines and pulling them down. The transformer fell from its pole and the pole split in half vertically. We were without power, telephone and cable for one week.

Tree in the corner of our lot.

Base of the tree.

Split telephone pole......now how did that happen?

Pole bent and pulled off of our house

That's the transformer on
the ground instead of up a pole.

Can't you work any faster?

2008-07-10T15:25:00.001-07:00

At a family gathering recently, my daughter was snapping pictures. Kahlil, who was sitting in his chair beside me, reached up and grabbed a handful of my hair and pulled my head next to his, calling to his aunt: "Tete, Tete, gaagaa me. gaagaa, me." When she said okay, he dropped his hand and looked very pleased with himself. This is the picture that resulted.

For the first time in several years, my three daughters were together again. That's Chrissy, Carol, and Ellen. Hard to believe it has been 37 years since I adopted them. 37 years, 12 granchildren and 2 1/2 great grandchildren.

2008-06-23T05:37:00.000-07:00

Kahlil gets his first haircut. His second birthday is on the 4th of July so he has to look sharp. His Uncle Robbie volunteered to do the deed.

YOU'RE GOING TO WHAT?

I'M NOT TOO SURE ABOUT THIS.

WHY IS THIS MAKING ME SLEEPY?

ZZZZZZZZZZZ................

SEE YOUR NEW HAIRSTYLE.

I LOOK SHARP.

2008-04-12T13:24:00.000-07:00

Easter Sunday we had a little egg hunt for the babies.

Julissa: "I'll never find anything."

"I got one!"

"I got two!"

"There's another one!"

2008-02-25T21:24:00.001-08:00

We had camera trouble this Christmas but managed to get these 2 photos before the camera died of lack of battery. Later, after a little recharging we got the sleepy photo.

That's Julissa's Aunt Tierra with her second cousin, Kahlil.

The babies' New Years Resolution--get rid of the pacifiers. It only took three days and a stern lecture to the older kids to stop putting them in the babies mouths.

2008-02-25T20:58:00.000-08:00

My Great granddaughter on her first birthday looking over some of her gifts. I love the look of surprise on her face.

Mom couldn't stand to watch her blow out her candle on a cupcake on her actual birth date. We had her party a few days later.

enjoying the smash cake at her party.

Julissa riding her "bike" on her birthday. Look at those teeth.

Kahlil showing Julissa how to steer the bike. Look what Julissa found to hold on to.

and a good time was had by all. Wow, look at Kahlil's teeth. What a difference being 4 months older makes.

2007-12-02T07:38:00.000-08:00

BASIC HAT DESIGNING

Photographs of hats made with this technique. The first hat is described at the end of this posting and directions are included. Patterns for the next 5 are available from www.knittingvault.com There are 2 views of the red beret as the top view did not do it justice. The ribbed beret is a free pattern that is listed in the first posting on this blog.

SUPER SIMPLE HAT DESIGNING

This is a super simple method of knitting hats—from the top down. The advantage of this method is that you can eliminate gauge swatches and just pick up any yarn and needles and start knitting. If unsure of your choices, I suggest that you follow the recommendations on the yarn bands.

You size your hats by measuring with a ruler so the exact number of rows doesn't matter. Then there is a little trick before adding ribbing that makes the hat fit comfortably. You will need to know how to do a circular cast on and use magic loop knitting. Directions for both follow. DPN or 2 circulars can also be used if that is your preferred way to knit. I also use a row counting yarn chain to space my increases. This is made by tying yarn around 2 needles with a square knot, then turning the needles over and tying another square knot and repeating until you have a chain with 4 loops and a tail. The loop at the top is number 1 and the loop by the tail is number 4.

Most hats require les than 200 yards of yarn or approximately 50 gms. The length of the circular needle is not important. Mine are 40 inches long. I don't recommend using 16 inch needles as they tend to cramp the hand. The hat is worked in 8 wedges so each set of directions is repeated a total of 8 times. This technique also works for hats with 6 sections on top or 7. The difference is that the top is flat with 8 sections and curves upward with less.

CAST ON

directions with photos are at:

http://martianmischief.blogspot.com/2006_03_26_archive.html

Make a slip knot that will close (untie when you pull on the tail end of the yarn, not the skein end of the yarn.) Hold this slip knot in your left hand with the side that will slide down. In the circle or loop, YO, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1. To make a YO, bring the yarn between the points of the needles to the front and then wrap it over the right needle letting it hang down the back ready for the next stitch.

You now have 4 YO and 4 stitches on your needle. Slide them onto the cable part of the needle and then fold them in half. Bring the cable out between stitches 4 and 5 and slide the stitches back onto the needles.

Now you are ready to knit around in a circle. With the circular cast on, there is no need to attach your stitches as the cast on already does that for you. Hold the needles in your left hand with the needle that has the skein of yarn attached to it on the bottom. Hold onto the tip of that needle and draw it out until you can curve the cable around and bring the needle points together. Knit the 4 stitches on one needle, draw that needle out again and knit the stitches on the second side. You have completed one row. On the next round follow your hat pattern. I usually put a stitch marker between the first and second stitch to mark the beginning of the round.

INCREASES:

How you make your increases will alter the shape of the top of the hat, but they can be made in any way that you like, so for a basic or first hat just make 8 increases every other row. This will show as a gentle spiral on top of your hat. 16 increases every 4^th row (an increase before and after each marker) will make 8 even sections. That is the method used on the berets pictured at the top. 4 increases every row will make a hat with a square top. A lot of designing is possible in making the increases, both in the spacing of the increases and the type of increase used. It will all work out if you maintain the proportion of 8 increases every other row.

Another alternative way to make your increases is to use the same principle that Elizabeth Zimmerman uses in her Pi designed shawls. That is to double the total number of stitches on rows 3,6,12,24. The problem with this technique is that you must check that you do not have too many stitches when the top circle is finished.

BASIC PATTERN:

For a spiral top:

Cast on row

Row 1--Knit 1 rows

Row 2—first increase row—increase in first stitch, k1, repeat 7 times for a total of 8 sections.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until top is desired size. I find it convenient to place markers before each section in order to avoid the necessity of counting for increases.

Continue with straight knitting without increases until total length desired is reached.

Work edge treatment

Bind off

For 8 even wedges:

Work rows 1 and 2 just like spiral top hat. Work 3 rows between increase rows, placing markers every 2 stitches.

Increase row:Make increase before marker, knit 1, make increase, knit to next marker, repeat for each section

knit 3 rows even

Repeat these last 4 rows until top is desired size.

Continue with straight knitting without increases until total length desired is reached.

Work edge treatment

Bind off

THE SIZING SECRET

Measure from the center to one of the markers or the outer edge of the knitting.

To fit actual head size this measurement and total length from

in inches of: should be: center top is:

newborn 14.....................2.25 in.........................6.24.in.

Infant 16.........................2.5 in............................7.5 in.

toddler 18.......................2.75 in..........................8.75 in.

child and teen 20...........3.25 in........................10.75 in.

teen and adult 22...........3.5 in..........................11.5 in.

lge adult 24.....................3.75 in........................12.75 in.

When the diameter of the top is the size you want, begin knitting in rounds without making any increases or decreases until you reach the total length listed above.

The only thing left to add is the edge finish.

Rolled edge—knit another inch or two in garter stitch and bind off

Ribbed band—work ribbing with a needle 2 sizes smaller than that used on body of the hat. 1 inch is enough to keep the hat on comfortably but the length of the ribbing is optional as long as the combined length is equal to the total length in the chart above plus 1 inch. The amount of ribbing folded up must be added to this total.

For a beret, follow the directions above until you have the top knit then count the stitches between the markers and remember that number. Continue enlarging the top until it is the diameter desired. Historically a beret is 9 to 10 inches in diameter. It was made this side in order to block it by placing a dinner plate inside of it. When you have your desired diameter, work 1 to 2 inches straight and then begin to make decreases in the same manner as you made the increases. When the number of stitches between the markers matches the number you counted above, begin your edge finishing.

For an earflap hat, mark off 2 sections that are about 1/6 of the total number of stitches. Continue to work these sections in stockinette stitch when you are working the ribbing. For children, place these exactly opposite of each other. For older children and adults, they can be placed toward the back half of the hat leaving more stitches free on the front. When your 1 inch of ribbing is finished, bind off the stitches between the stockinette sections, keeping the stockinette areas on your needle. Work each stockinette area individually. Continue to work the flaps in this manner: Work rows 1 and 2 4 times. On row 9 work row 3 then 4. Continue repeating these 4 rows until you have between 4 and 5 stitches left. Cut tail of yarn and thread on a yarn needle. Run needle through remaining stitches, draw up tightly and tie off, bury end tail.

Row 1—knit

Row 2—knit 2, purl to last 2 stitches, knit 2

Row 3—knit 2, make a decrease, knit to last 4 stitches, make a decrease, knit 2

Row 4—purl

Repeat with second earflap. Make twisted cord and attach to each end of flap for ties if desired. I attach my twisted cords by twisting 5 times desired finished length, drawing the cord through the end of the flap and then allowing it to twist after knotting off the bottom.

2007-10-17T00:12:00.001-07:00

The kids enjoyed a day at the park. At first they were not too sure about the big slide.

Kahlil felt safer with Robbie holding him.

Kahlil doing his favorite activity:

Running around.

Guess I have to grow a little before using this.

2007-10-17T00:06:00.001-07:00

Tierra got a new puppy and brought it over to introduce it to the babies. Julissa was enchanted with the stuffed animal that moved. Kahlil wasn't to sure about it but did smile when he felt how soft the puppy was.

2007-07-13T22:47:00.001-07:00

KAHLIL'S FIRST BIRTHDAY

My grandma is HOT!

Thanks, gaagaa

I like this.

Bubbles, bubbles, bubbles

What do you mean it's not my birthday?
I got all this stuff.

Wow, what a big cupcake. That's Kahlil's uncle Tracy holding him.

Kahlil's mom, Andi, is holding the cake.
Three grandchildren and two great grandchildren in photo

WOW!

The end of a perfect party.

2007-06-13T09:28:00.001-07:00

Kahlil is walking at 10 months.

Get your balance.

Look at me!

Slow down little man.

2007-05-27T22:12:00.001-07:00

The great grand babies got their first cupcakes at my grandson, Corbin's, graduation. He is the one in the Valentine photo. Here is the photo evidence.

This stuff is good!

What do you mean? That's all?????????

2007-05-27T22:06:00.001-07:00

Well........it squishes.

Now that tastes good. I want more.

Don't bother me, I'm busy. Yum!

2007-05-08T09:56:00.000-07:00

I get to push!

Get ready for a ride!

I don't think I'm going to like this!

STOP! STOP! STOP!

Safe at last, but I'm still mad.

That was fun!

2007-05-02T18:20:00.000-07:00

Jalissa is very serious but getting prettier every day.

Kahlil is as happy as every and still working on his teeth. He has 6 now.

2007-04-27T12:15:00.000-07:00

knitting tension and gauge exercise

Get a piece of scrap knitting, like a washcloth or scarf and practice doing this for 10 minutes a day before doing your regular knitting.

First Principle: the needle size, not how tightly or loosely the stitches are made, should determine the stitch size.

Second Principle: tight knitters complete their stitches on the taper of the needle, then force them back on the shaft. Loose knitters on the shaft of the needle, leaving room to insert the next needle.

Third Principle: in addition to the stitch, pay attention to that little segment of yarn between stitches. It also affects your gauge.

At first, just try this: knit a stitch very slowly, but as you do so watch the yarn go around the needle. It should pass smoothly over the needle with a minimal gap where the two sides of the V come together. In order to get more room to insert your needle, you will slide that stitch down on the taper of the needle when it is time to knit it. Tip your needle vertically on its point. When made correctly your stitch will not slide, but when you need to move it, it will slide easily. Just keep watching the wrapping of the stich and the tension of the yarn. It becomes hypnotic.

Things to watch: Hold the tips of your needles close together. Loose knitters make grandiose movements with a lot of stretch between the stitches separating the needles. Tight knitters cramp everything up on the tapers of the needles. It is only necessary to pass the needle through until the stitch is on the shaft, extra inches on the shaft don't count.

Examine how you are holding your yarn. Loose knitters have almost no tension on their yarn. Tight knitters have it in a death grip. You should be able to pull the yarn through your fingers and feel the tension on it yet pull it through easily. Wrap the yarn through your fingers and pull on it slowly to feel the tension. Now loop it over your little finger again, pull it slowly and feel the tension.

Try different numbers of wraps with different sizes of yarn. Learning to control yarn tension with wraps will speed up your knitting and reduce the tension in your hands. Controlling the tension by gripping the yarn is unreliable because hands get tired and are very much subject to our own personal tensions and moods.

After you have passed your right needle through and the stitch is on the shaft, place your right index finger on it (or whichever finger is handy) to hold it in place. Large movememts would now loosen it up even further, but your finger will help hold the tension in place. When you have the stitch safely on your right needle, don't check it out. Check out the stitch that comes before it. The one you just made will still shift around until it is trapped by another stitch. The one before it is the one you may want to adjust.

Loose knitters want to be fast knitters; tight knitters want precise stitches. Don't worry about speed, it will come naturally. Tightness is hard to control, ease it up and let the yarn do its own adjusting. Just keep watching that smooth passage of yarn and the neat line up of stitches.

While you are in this learning process, your tensions and gauges will be constantly changing. Check them often. It is not necessary for your stitch gauge to match what is on the yarn wrapper, but when it does, you know you have your tension technique down pat.

I've been knitting for 58 years. I still practice my stitches every day, only now I am brave enough to do it on my project. Why do I do it? Because even when we have the technique down pat, we are subject to our own personal tensions, nerves, depressions, etc. This little practice also helps to even our lives.

2007-02-13T14:00:00.000-08:00

This is a valentine photo which I am giving to my grandson tomorrow. He is holding his daughter who is 30 minutes old. I spotlighted their faces which darkened the background and enlarged it. Whenever I see it, I think "daddy love"

2007-02-08T11:06:00.000-08:00

Many years ago I made a patchwork Aran sweater that contained 19 different designs. Some of the patterns had 28 or more rows. Getting mixed up was soooooo easy. and that is what led to my development of my yarn row counter. Directions to make one were posted on Friday, April 28, 2006. Here are the directions for using them in an Aran design.

Make a row counter for each different design in the sweater. If a design is repeated in the sweater make 2 of them. Make the row counters as long as the number of rows in the design. For example, if there are 4 rows in the pattern, make a counter with 4 circles. If there are more than 10 rows in the pattern, make 2 10 row counters.

Now have available a convenient copy of each design in the sweater so you can refer to it. I like to copy the pattern on file cards either written out or a graph. I then put all the cards, in order, on a binder ring so I can flip them over. If a pattern is used more than once, I write out a separate card for each time it is used. Then on my set up row, I place a counter and place the card for that design face down, a second marker, the second card, etc. When finished I have the first row of each pattern finished. Each pattern separated by its own row counter with the correct number of rows in it, and the flip file of cards of the patterns.

Once everything is set up, I can sit with my flip cards and knit each design, flip the card and do the next one with the row counter telling me which row I am working.

2007-01-23T15:27:00.001-08:00

This is Julissa at age 2 months. She's just staring at that tickle thing and waiting for it to attack her.

Here is Julissa being held by her uncle Robbie. Can't you just hear her asking: "He's my uncle? Really?"

She is wearing the little outfit I knit for her. It is a zip up the back sweater. The pattern is at www.knitting.about.com I designed the little teddy bear on the front and added the pocket. I also made matching leggings. The ribbing on the hood keeps it close to her head as she grows. The little point on top actually curves toward the front with a little pixie curl. When she is about 2 there will no longer be a point on top of the hood but it fits her well even when she is so tiny. She was a few weeks early and is just now 7 lbs.

2007-01-06T16:39:00.000-08:00

Kahlil's New Years Resolution was taken care of rather quickly. He wanted to grow teeth. Doesn't he look proud of himself? I know I learned my lesson. If I don't see my great grandchildren for a week, they come back and bite me.

2006-12-26T10:52:00.000-08:00

Kalil opening his penquin. He is being held by his cousin, Tierra.

Now he is posing in his new walker. Notice that he hasn't let go of the penquin yet. And yes that is my foot and my oxygen tank.

Julissa didn't show much interest in her little duck (after all she's only 6 weeks old, but Kahlil tasted it and told her it was okay.

2006-12-16T21:37:00.000-08:00

Christmas knitting for 2006 was not as much as in previous years but I did manage to get a few things made. All the patterns are free on the internet except the one with the 4 hearts in the center and that book is extremely hard to find.

The little doll is the "AMY" doll and I didn't follow her patterns for any of her clothing. I found them all way to big so I designed my own. As you can see I have one bootie to go. Even though it looks like a pair of sox and Mary Janes, it is just a bootie.

2006-12-08T23:53:00.000-08:00

Almost finished with my Christmas knitting. I have a tablecloth and 2 table centers to block and one more gift for my littlest granddaughter. I have a doll pattern selected for her but am waiting for the yarn to get here. I've sent them three times and have not gotten yarn I can use yet. I want a flesh colored yarn. I don't care if it is light pink, tan, or a medium brown, but it shold be something in the vicinity of real flesh. My only other alternative would be to use the violet I already have. Now let me think that over............hmmmmmmm...........

2006-11-18T13:23:00.000-08:00

Kahlil and Julissa meet. She slept through it and he gave it serious thought.

He finally decided he liked her! He is 4 months old. She is 4 days old. He weighs 2.5 times as much as she does. Now since their parents are first cousins, I think that makes them second cousins once removed.

2006-11-14T12:30:00.000-08:00

Three generations--my great granddaughter, her mother and her grandmother, my daughter.

My first greatgranddaughter, Julissa Renae Marrs 5 lb. 15 oz. born 11/14/2006 18 1/2 in.

2006-11-07T16:32:00.000-08:00

As requested by some of my Knitters Review friends, here is a universal poncho pattern that includes a "baby buttonhole". I would love to see some of your finished pictures of this pattern.

2006-11-07T16:29:00.000-08:00

Poncho pattern

This is knit in a circular fashion from the neck down. Without the baby “buttonhole” it can be used to make ponchos for everyone from infants to large adults.

Use whatever yarn you wish and select needles that will give you the knitted fabric that you like. You will also need needles two sizes smaller except if you are using the rolled edges.

Work a gauge swatch to determine your stitches per inch. The only place on this pattern where you need to know your gauge is in the neckline openings. That is also the number of stitches you need to cast on. Work this gauge swatch in the needles you will use for the main part of the poncho. If you skip this part, try your poncho on before you knit too much of it to be sure it goes over your head.

Multiply your stitches per inch by your neckline measurement. For most of us this is 20 or 22. Cast on that number of stitches. Use a marker for beginning of row. Directions for joining into a circle and other circular knitting hints can be found on my blog:

www.martianmischief.blogspot.com

Decide on what neckline finish you want to use.

Rolled edge—do nothing just begin pattern rows.

garter stitch edge—using smaller needle, work 8 to 10 rows in.

Crew neckline—using smaller needle, work 1 ½ to 2 inches in ribbing .

Turtle neck—using smaller needle, work 4 to 10 inches in ribbing . Work ribbing until it is a tall as you want the finished turtleneck to be and then double it so it will fold back on itself.

Gathered or adjustible neckline—using smaller needle, work 4 rows in garter stitch, one row in yo, k2tog, then another row in plain knitting. This will leave you a row of eyelets into which you can insert twisted cord or ribbon etc.

Flat neckline—begin regular poncho pattern but, using the smaller needle, work 1 ½ to 2 inches in a stitch that will not roll like seed stitch, garter stitch or ribbing. The difference between this finish and a crew neckline is that increases are made in this finish that allow it to lie flat against the body.

When your neckline finish is completed divide stitches on needles into 4 equal parts. Keep the beginning of round marker a different color. Switch to your larger needles.

You may use any increase that you wish. A YO will give you spaced holes along the increase line. Opposite increases on either side of the marker look the best. An M1 is my personal preferred increase as it gives a solid fabric. Other increases change the appearance of this line. Use the one you prefer.

Row 1—beginning at beginning of round marker,* k1, increase, k to one stitch before marker, increase, k1, sl marker* repeat a total of 4 times which will take you back to beginning of round marker.

Row 2—knit

Repeat these 2 rows until the distance from neckline to edge is 8-10 inches.

Baby Buttonhole

Decide how you want to wear poncho. Do you want it with a point down in front and back or rectangular—straight across on the bottom front? Fold your mini poncho both ways and decide. You will need to measure and mark opening for baby. For the pointed front poncho, mark 10-12 inches of stitches across the increase line. For the straight across poncho, mark 10-12 inches of stitches centered between two increase lines. Continue knitting but work these stitches to match your neckline finish, that is in garter, ribbing, seed stitch, etc. Work about ½ to 2 inches then on the next row, when you get to this section, work one inch in pattern then bind off 8 (infant) to 10(about 3 yrs old) inches of stitches, work the last inch in pattern. Work around until you come to this section again and cast on stitches equal in number to those you bound off. As you continue in pattern work another 1 ½ inches in a non rolling finish on these stitches, then continue alternating poncho rows until you are at your desired length. Again work rows in a stitch that does not roll around edge and bind off.

It is suggested that you use needles 2 sizes smaller for neckline finish, edges of baby neckline buttonhole and bottom edge. Garter stitch, ribbing, and seed stitch all match the main body of the poncho when done in a smaller needle. I don't recommend ribbing, which draws in, for the bottom of the poncho. Garter or seed stitch will keep the edges flat

2006-11-04T11:21:00.000-08:00

I got your nose.

That was so funny!

2006-11-01T21:02:00.000-08:00

Here is Kahlil wearing the little hat I made for his trip home from the hospital 4 months ago.
Here he is doing his favorite thing... sleeping. Looks like he is deep in thought, doesn't it?

2006-10-24T16:12:00.000-07:00

Finally, I have been having problems gaining access to making posts on blogger. I hope it is now straightened out. I have a lot of catching up to do. I have been doing a lot of knitting and have half a dozen finished objects. I will post pics soon. Oh my, sometimes this posting shows up and sometimes it doesn't.

2006-07-09T10:30:00.000-07:00

This is a super simple top down pullover or cardigan that fits. I recommend it for a first sweater. I am sure reading this pattern will make you question everything you believe about making sweaters, but trust me it works. It is based on the percentage sweater system and has automatic built in features that do most of the calculations for you.This pattern will work with everyone from infancy to large adult male. The only figure type that has problems with it is the extremely slim, extremely tall person...like the 6 foot, size 2 woman.You need 4 measurements to make this sweater. They are, head size and you can use averages here, chest size, length of sleeve, (I recommend from center back,across shoulder and down to wrist with the elbow bent) and back length from neckline to where you want the sweater to stop. Neckline finish must fit over head for a pullover. Necklines are proportionately larger in infants and children.Make a test swatch in stockinette stitch to determine stitches per inch. Pick up a set of circular or dpn needles 2 sizes smaller than those you used for your test swatch, Cast on stitches per inch from your test swatch times head size or use 14 inches for infant 18 inches toddler, 20 inches for larger children and teens, 22 inches for adults, 24 inches for large head sizes. Don't try to think this out too much. Some of the automatic changes built into the sweater are switching to smaller sized needles and switching to ribbing. Your finished neckline will be smaller than your head size when it is around your neck but will stretch to go over the head easily. Body size is no indication of head size. You only need a size 24 if you can't find hats that fit when you shop.

When casting on a multiple of 6 stitches is nice but not critical. Add 8 stitches to your cast on for a cardigan. Work your ribbing circularly using a marker for beginning of row for a pullover, back and forth for a cardigan. Work in ribbing of your choice. 1 to 1 1/2 inch of ribbing for crew neck, 4 to 6 inches of ribbing for turtleneck. Doing a v-neck involves doing short rows, but it can be done also, as can crossed v, shawl collars, etc. You can learn the changes for these designs later. On the last row of your ribbing, insert a total of 4 markers. For a pullover start at your beginning of the row marker (a different color from the rest) work 1/6 of your total number of stitches for the right sleeve, place marker, work 1/3 of total number of stitches for the front, place marker, work 1/6 total number of stitches for left sleeve, place marker, work remaining 1/3 total number of stitches for back and you are back to the beginning of row marker. For a cardigan,4 stitches for rt band, work 1/6 of your stitches for rt. front, place marker, 1/6 for right sleeve, marker, 1/3 for back, marker, 1/6 for left sleeve, marker, 1/6 for left front, 4 stitches for left band. If your stitches do not divide into 6th equally, fudge it putting extra stitches into the back and front or more in the front than in the back. Now switch to stockinette stitch and alternate these two rows for
pullover:
Row 1--knit all stitches
Row 2--starting at marker, k1, increase 1, knit to one stitch before marker, increase 1, k1, slip marker, . Repeat a total of 4 times until you are back at beginning of row marker.
Cardigan:
Row 1--knit 4 stitches, purl to last 4 stitches , knit 4 stitches.
Row 2--knit to one stitch before marker, increase 1, k1, slip marker, k1, increase 1. Repeat a total of 4 times ending by knitting to end of row.
Increases: you can use any increase you prefer. The simplest is a YO which makes a row of holes on both sides of the raglan line. Barbara Walker describes 7 different types of increases that can be made. It gives a better appearance to do opposite increases before and after the marker.Continue alternating those two rows until the measurement across the back is equal to 1/2 of your actual body chest measurement. When it is, you are at the underarm level. Work to the sleeve stitches and place sleeve stitches on a yarn stitch holder. Thread contrasting, smooth scrap yarn or dental floss on a yarn needle and pass it through the sleeve stitches on the needle. Tie the ends of the yarn together loosely. Metal yarn holders will stretch out and distort the end stitches and are not recommended, you need something flexible. You can drop all markers except the beginning of the row marker.The stitches you will now cast on provide the ease of the sweater. 4 inches is the average or regular amount, so that would be 2 inches under each arm. Your yarn is at the sleeve marker, using the knitted on or cable cast on, cast on 2 inches of stitches, knit to the other sleeve and place it on another yarn holder. Cast on another 2 inches and continue to end of row.Continue knittingwithout any further increases until the measurement from the back of the neck to the bottom of the sweater is equal to your desired length minus the ribbing. Change to smaller needles and work ribbing and when it is finished, bind off.

Go back and replace one of the sleeves on your knitting needle. Now, on the area where you cast on the stitches under the arm, pick up a stitch in each one of those stitches. Look at what you have done, if there are any gaps between the sleeve stitches and the ones you have picked up, pick up extra stitches there so you don't get a hole. On the next row you can make decreases to correct your stitch count. Join in a circle and begin knitting the sleeve.For a full sleeve, knit straight until it is 1 1/2 inches shorter than desired length, work 1 row of k2tog then switch to your smaller needles and work 2 to 3 inches of ribbing, bind off. The most common mistake new knitters make is to get the sleeves too short. That is because they don't know how to meaure for them. If you measure from the center back like I described above, you don't have that problem.Complete second sleeve the same way. Work in yarn tails and you are finished.Refinements:Use short rows to raise the back neckline slightly for better fit over the shoulders.Taper the sleeve, just ask and I'll post the directions. Tapered sleeves involve math and a stitch and row gauge.Ribbing: I find that I am satisfied figuring out how long to make ribbing using this formula that I call 1,2,3. 1 being 1 inch for a crew neck, 2 being 2 inches for the bottom of the sweater and 3 being the ribbing for the sleeves. Now that would be for a child's sweater. For an adult, you might use 1 1/2 inches for crew neck, 3 inches for bottom and 4 1/2 inches for sleeves or 3, 4, and 6, or any general proportion similar to that. You cannot make a mistake in how much ribbing you put on your sweater so don't fret over it.

2006-07-08T05:12:00.000-07:00

HE'S HERE!!!!! Kahlil arrived on July 4th at 10:07 am. He's 7lb 4 0z and 21 inches long. Isn't he adorable!! What a way to become a great grandmother. He is 20 minutes old in this picture. Andi is doing fine and being a terrific mother.

2006-07-01T12:56:00.000-07:00

This baby baseball cap was designed for my first great grandchild who is due in less than a month. Since he will be a July baby I wanted something cool so made it out of 50% cotton, 50% acrylic and used a mesh design for the sides. I think it turned out rather well. Now I have to pack my hospital bag since I will be going to the hospital with the new mom and need to take all my meds, meals, splints, etc. with me. I probably should write this pattern down.

2006-06-23T18:31:00.000-07:00

The knit headband I made for my grandaughter's 6th birthday is shown here. I made several knit headbands and a small purse for her. Here is a picture of a mesh headband made out of cotton/spandex yarn. It is very stretchy. Although only 13 inches in diameter it will stretch to fit over a 24 inch head.

2006-06-12T13:57:00.000-07:00

THE ABSOLUTELY EASIEST BOOTIE PATTERN YOU CAN FIND. I mass produced these when I adopted my three girls. They still wear them as slippers and request them every year, but they are a little larger now. This makes a bootie that is 3 1/2 inches long without stretching and will fit any newborn baby. It will stretch until foot is about 6 1/2 inches long so it can be worn for a long time.

Cast on 5 to 8 inches of stitches (cuff length will vary from 1/2 to 2 inches depending on cast on) work in garter stitch until unstretched length of bootie is 2 inches, Bind off stitches at beginning of next 2 rows leaving 4 inches of stitches in center. Continue garter stitch until unstretched length is 3 1/2 inches, k2 tog across next row, knit 1 row even, k 2 tog across next row, thread yarn through stitches and tie off tightly, sew seam up to edge of cuff and finish off. Gather center back 1/3 of stitches and tie off. Sew cast on edges together using your favorite seam. I use what I call the "baseball" stitch because it was once used on those older leather baseballs. Pass yarn or narrow ribbon under garter "bumps" at level of cuff and use to tie on booties. Turn cuff down. Directions for the baseball stitch follow.

2006-06-12T13:40:00.000-07:00

The first stitch is taken from the inside of the bootie to the outside. The second one is also taken from the inside to the outside. In fact, all stitches are made putting the needle from the inside to the outside. .

This gives the seam the characteristic criss crossed look of a baseball.

But magically the edges are turned in and the sewing yarn disappears when it is tightened and nothing shows but a closed seam even when sewn with contrasting thread.

2006-06-11T03:37:00.000-07:00

Finally back on line after moving. Lots of problems getting reconnected to the internet but they are almost solved now. Still waiting for one wireless connector and then will have a completely wireles network in the house. In the meantime I have a wire running across the dining room and into my bedroom taped to the carpet with duct tape. Now its time for some serious knitting.

2006-05-04T09:36:00.000-07:00

I've been experimenting with selling a few patterns on eBay. I have to charge more than they are sold for at the knitting vault and with eBay's charges I make about the same amount on each pattern but I do think I am selling a few more there than at the vault. Only time will tell. Wish me luck.

2006-04-28T03:30:00.000-07:00

I make my own row counters. No matter how hard I tried, I always forgot to change my counter. The more relaxed knitting makes me, the more ditzy I become. So........I made a counter I have to pay attention to or I can't go on knitting. It is so simple. Tie a contrasting yarn around 2 knitting needles the size you are using with a square knot, flip the needles over and tie another knot on the other side. Continue this until you have the number of circles tied in the yarn that you want. For straight row counting, I use 10. Look at the chain you just formed. One end has a circle that is smooth all the way around. That is row 1. The other end has 2 yarn tags hanging from it. That is row 10. Now knit 4 or 5 stitches in the row and slip your counter to the right hand needle and then continue knitting. You have to stop and do something each time you get to the chain. You can't ignore it.(Put in on the end of the knitting and you can ignore it) Each time you finish a row, slip your needle in a circle below the one you were using and go on.If you have to count a large number of rows, use 2 chains and switch one every row and the other each time you come to the end of the first chain. You can count 110 rows with these two chains. Need more? Add a third chain and you can count 1110 rows. If you need a fourth chain....STOP....you are knitting a highway. One of the best places to use these markers is in an Aran pattern. I put regular stitch markers between the pattern sections--one of which counts the total rows for me. Then put pattern specific markers in each different section to count the rows of the individual pattern. For example one section may have a chain of 6, another a chain of 4, depending on the pattern repeat. I even did one pattern with a 28 row repeat, and did that with 2 chains. One a 10 chain with the 8th hole marked with permanent marker and the other a 2 chain. I figured this out many years ago when I did a sweater with 19 Aran patterns in it. (I was young, brave and most important CHILDLESS). I sometimes just put a length of yarn 8-10 inches around a couple of stitches on the tenth row, then when I get to the 20 row, I pull it out, tie a knot in it and use it again. I get the total by counting the knots.I%2

2006-04-06T05:11:00.000-07:00

This is my granddaughter wearing her new spring hat. It was made from a fibertrends pattern called ruffled tulip hat which I bought from www.theknitter.com.

After making it, I made another one, but this time I worked the tulips upside down and made the hat a little shorter. I gave this one to my daughter to use as a Spring Basket. Now I am looking for a way to stiffen a handle for it.

2006-04-06T04:43:00.000-07:00

Closing circular knitting can be challenging. This is only one way but it is my favorite. The difference in the coloring of the pictures refects the distance from the knitting to the camera.

Cast on over two needles with long tail cast on. Cast on one extra stitch for the closure.

Pull the cable out between the center stitches and slide the stitches to the needles. Position the cast on to the center of the needles carefully to avoid twisting your knitting. The bottom needle is the right hand needle and it has the extra stitch on it.

Slip the extra stitch from the right hand needle to the left hand needle.

Insert your right hand needle through this last stitch and pull the first stitch through. It is okay if that stitch stretches out when you do this. Drop both stitches from the needle and then replace the first stitch back on the needle.
Pull on the yarn to tighten up the stitch and close the circle. Now you can pull your right hand needle through to form a loop and begin knitting. Keep tention on the yarn until you have completed the first two stitches.

Here is a picture of a magic loop. Beginning with the left needle, follow to the back of it, down the cable and around until it goes through the stitches on the bottom, around the second loop to the right needle and back through the stitches.

2006-04-06T03:24:00.000-07:00

Refining and improving circular knitting has been discussed several times in recent weeks. Here is one of my favorite techniques.

Position the cable of your circular needle under the stitches on your left hand needle and hold it there while you make your first stitches.

Make your first stitch and slide it over beside the last stitch on the cable. Pay attention to the segment of yarn between the stitches.

Make the second stitch and slide it next to the first to lock it into place.

It is easier to make 3 to 4 stitches before dropping the cable. Now examine your work and see that the stitches are side by side just as if they had been knit on a straight needle.

2006-03-29T12:04:00.000-08:00

Make a circle of yarn and pull a loop through in the usual manner.

2006-03-29T12:01:00.000-08:00

Pull loop through and tighten by tugging on yarn attached to the ball of yarn

2006-03-29T11:30:00.000-08:00

Check that the tail slides easily so that you can close the loop later.

Make your first stitch a knit stitch if you are casting on an odd number, a YO if you are casting on an even number. Alternate knit stitches and YO.

Repeat until you have the number of stitches you wish. You cannot end with a YO, so the last stitch must be either a knit or purl stitch.

Until you have several rows of stitches on your needles, hold the stitches in place carefully whenever you move them. Move the stitches to the cable part of the circular needle. Fold them in half and pull the cable out between the center stitches. Now, locate the needle closest to the yarn from the ball of yarn, loop it around until aait meets the point of the other needle and knit across the 4 stitches. Pull on the loop until the other needle is lined up for knitting, loop the cable around again and knit across the second 4 stitches. You are now knitting with magic loop technique.

Even with only the cast on and one row of knitting the center can be closed by pulling on the tail of yarn. Later, tighten up the tail of yarn, take a back stitch and then work in the tail.

2006-03-14T20:23:00.000-08:00

To knit your adjusted sweater, cast on the total width you calculated, work until you are about 2 inches below the armhole. work the short rows you need in the front, continue to the armhole. Bind off the stitches in section B. Begin to decrease one stitch at the beginning of each row until you are at the width of A. Work up straight until you have achieved your armhole depth. Work your desired shoulder finish.

I have not mentioned the neckline finish. That is done the usual way with those infamous words......at the same time.

2006-03-14T19:47:00.000-08:00

To enlarge a basic fitted sleeve sweater, think of it in 3 sections. Draw a rectangle that matches your shoulder to shoulder width, and is as long as you want your sweater to be. I call this section A . The center 1/3 is your average width for your neckline.

Place a ruler under your arm to get your underarm width. Measure only the straight across portion, not the curved portion on the sides. This will probably be 1 to 2 inches narrower than the total width. One half of this amount is section B and this is the amount that is bound off under the arms on your sweater design. If you are making a fitted sweater, this is the area that tapers on the sides toward the waist and then out again toward the hips. I call this section B

The third section is the space between the first two. I call this section C. Take one half os your chest body measurement plus ease and subtract from it the width of A and the width of 2 Bs, one for each side.. The remainder is the number of inches in 2 section Cs. As you widen section C, it is necessary to continue your increases until you meet section A. An average figure will only have a few increases here. A plus size will have more but they are essential to fill in this area and prevent pulling across the sleeves and chest. No changes to the sleeves are necessary with these adjustments as the number of rows doesn't change.

These are the changes necesary to widen the sweater, but if you have a large bustline, you may also need a dart along the side in order to get adequate front length. In knitting, this is done with short rows. If your sweater is shorter in center front than on the sides you need short rows. To find out how many you need, you will have to take two measurements. Take these measurements between two horizontal lines, one above the breast and one below. Measure the distance between the lines over the fullest part of the breast and also along the side. The difference between the two numbers is the amount of inches you need to add with short rows. Multiply this amount by your rows per inch, then divide that number by 2 because a short row actually needs two rows. Space the number of short rows along a line from a point about 1 inch below and 1 inch to the side of the apex of the breast.

2006-03-08T21:54:00.000-08:00

This is a super simple top down pullover that fits. I recommend it for a first sweater. I am sure reading this pattern will make you question everything you believe about making sweaters, but trust me it works. It is based on the percentage sweater system and has automatic built in features that do most of the calculations for you.This pattern will work with everyone from infancy to large adult male. The only figure type that has problems with it is the extremely slim, extremely tall person...like the 6 foot, size 2 woman.You need 4 measurements to make this sweater. They are, head size and you can use averages here, chest size, length of sleeve, (I recommend from center back,across shoulder and down to wrist with the elbow bent) and back length from neckline to where you want the sweater to stop.Rule #1--neckline finish must fit over head. Necklines are proportionately larger in infants and children.Make a test swatch in stockinette stitch to determine stitches per inch. Pick up a set of circular or dpn needles 2 sizes smaller than those you used for your test swatch, Cast on stitches per inch from your test swatch times head size or use 18 inches for infant to toddler, 20 inches for larger children and teens, 22 inches for adults, 24 inches for large head sizes. Body size is no indication of head size. You only need a size 24 if you can't find hats that fit when you shop. A multiple of 6 is nice but not critical. Work your ribbing circularly using a marker for beginning of row.Work in ribbing of your choice. 1 to 1 1/2 inch of ribbing for crew neck, 4 to 6 inches of ribbing for turtleneck. Doing a v-neck involves doing short rows, but it can be done also, as can crossed v, shawl collars, etc.On the last row of your ribbing, insert a total of 4 markers. Starting at your beginning of the row marker (a different color from the rest) work 1/6 of your total number of stitches for the right sleeve, place marker, work 1/3 of total number of stitches for the front, place marker, work 1/6 total number of stitches for left sleeve, place marker, work remaining 1/3 total number of stitches for back and you are back to the beginning of row marker. If your stitches do not divide into 6th equally, fudge it putting extra stitches into the back and front or more in the front than in the back. Now switch to stockinette stitch and alternate these two rows. Row 1--knit all stitches Row 2--starting at marker, k1, increase 1, knit to one stitch before marker, increase 1, k1, slip marker. Repeat a total of 4 times until you are back at beginning of row marker.Increases: you can use any increase you prefer. The simplest is a YO which makes a row of holes on both sides of the raglan line. Barbara Walker describes 7 different types of increases that can be made. It gives a better appearance to do opposite increases before and after the marker.Continue alternating those two rows until the measurement across the front is equal to 1/2 of your actual body chest measurement. When it is, you are at the underarm.Beginning with the start of row marker, place sleeve stitches on a yarn stitch holder. Thread contrasting, smooth scrap yarn or dental floss on a yarn needle and pass it through the sleeve stitches on the needle. Tie the ends of the yarn together loosely. Metal yarn holders will stretch out and distort the end stitches and are not recommended, you need something flexible. You can drop all markers except the beginning of the row marker.The stitches you will now cast on provide the ease of the sweater. 4 inches is the average or regular amount, so that would be 2 inches under each arm. Your yarn is at the beginning of row marker, using the knitted on or cable cast on, cast on 2 inches of stitches, knit across the front, cast on another 2 inches and place the other sleeve stitches on their yarn holder, knit across the back and you are back at the beginning of the row markers.Continue knitting around and around until the measurement from the back of the neck to the bottom of the sweater is equal to your desired length minus the ribbing. Change to ribbing and when it is finished, bind off. Go back and replace one of the sleeves on your knitting needle. Now, on the area where you cast on the stitches under the arm, pick up a stitch in each one of those stitches. Look at what you have done, if there are any gaps between the sleeve stitches and the ones you have picked up, pick up extra stitches there so you don't get a hole. On the next row you can make decreases to correct your stitch count. Join in a circle and begin knitting the sleeve.For a full sleeve, knit straight until it is 1 1/2 inches shorter than desired length, work 1 row of k2tog then switch to your smaller needles and work 2 to 3 inches of ribbing, bind off. The most common mistake new knitters make is to get the sleeves too short. That is because they don't know how to meaure for them. If you measure from the center back like I described above, you don't have that problem.Complete second sleeve the same way. Work in yarn tails and you are finished.Refinements:Use short rows to raise the back neckline slightly for better fit over the shoulders.Taper the sleeve, just ask and I'll post the directions. Tapered sleeves involve math and a stitch and row gauge.Ribbing: I find that I am satisfied figuring out how long to make ribbing using this formula that I call 1,2,3. 1 being 1 inch for a crew neck, 2 being 2 inches for the bottom of the sweater and 3 being the ribbing for the sleeves. Now that would be for a child's sweater. For an adult, you might use 1 1/2 inches for crew neck, 3 inches for bottom and 4 1/2 inches for sleeves or 3, 4, and 6, or any general proportion similar to that. You cannot make a mistake in how much ribbing you put on your sweater so don't fret over it.

2006-02-28T18:44:00.000-08:00

This is Spencer wearing the gown his grandmother knit from my pattern. She trimmed it in blue ribbons and also ran a ribbon through the bottom of the lace to give it more the appearance of a bunting rather than a skirt. There are also pictures of the front and back of this gown and another gown with hat and booties that are also included with the pattern. The hat and booties also have adjustable features to make them fit a variety of infant sizes. This pattern is avaialble at www.knittingvault.com or you can email me.

2006-02-28T18:41:00.000-08:00

2006-02-27T08:40:00.000-08:00

This keyboard intarsia is an original design (sorry, no pattern available) that I made for my SIL who is a musician. It is a knitted version of the D50 which was his first synthesizer and remains his favorite today. This sweater is about 5 years old and knit from Red Heart Soft yarn. It has been washed innumerable times, bleached and always machine dried. The changes in yarn texture are from washing in too hot water and drying in a hot dryer. He is a better SIL than clothes washer. Red Heart can take it. The look on his face comes from trying to stay awake after working a 16 hour night shift. One minute later and he was asleep.

2006-02-27T07:58:00.000-08:00

Someone asked to see some of my knitting so here is the Tomten jacket I made for my grandaughter for last Christmas. It is one of my favorite patterns from EZ as it is so versatile. From the look on her face, you can tell that Laurie likes it too. It is never folded. She is wearing it or it is in the laundry. It was knit from generic acrylic yarn I purchased on eBay at 5 stitches per inch. I had intended to insert a zipper but no one could find what I needed so I crochetted button loops along the edge. They can easily be removed later if and when I get a zipper.
That is not a yarn tail on her collar, that is a shadow.

2006-02-20T18:14:00.000-08:00

2006-02-18T08:51:00.000-08:00

Here is a free pattern which is very basic for a

GARTER STITCH BERET
Use any size yarn with a needle size appropriate to the yarn used.(check the yarn label) This hat is knit from the top down in a circular fashion so you will need to use either dpn's, the 2 circular technique or magic loop technique. The hat is also sized in a different manner than most knitter's are used to using.
To make this hat, you will need: Approximately 75 gms of yarn, About 2 yds of scrap yarn (contrast color, smooth yarn) 8 markers, one of which is different for beginning of row. ( I make them out of the scrap yarn) knitting needles appropriate for your yarn and another pair (optional) 2 sizes smaller. A measuring device to measure 5 or 6 inches.
Start by making your markers and row counting device.
Markers—tie scrap yarn around 2 needles with a square knot, leave about an inch tails—make 7
Row counter—use about a foot of yarn and tie the center of it around 2 needles with square knot, flip it over and tie another square knot, another flip, another knot, another flip, another knot. Remove from needles and stretch out. You should have 4 loops, trim these tails to an inch also. The first loop is row 1, the loop with the tails is row 4. Use this for your beginning of row marker. As you knit to it, slip your needle into the loop below the one on the left needle.
CAST ON—8 stitches using circular cast on. The hat is divided into 8 sections. Each of the following direction is reaped 8 times total on each round.
Row 1—kf&b in each stitch--16 stitches total
Row 2—k1, p1, place marker, use a different colored marker for beginning of round
Row 3—knit, sm
Row 4—k1, p1, sm
Row 5—k1, m1, k1, m1, sm
Row 6—k1,p3, sm
Row 7—knit, sm
Row 8—k1, purl to marker, sm
Row 9—k1, m1, knit to marker, m1, sm
Row 10--k1, purl to marker, sm
Row 11—knit, sm
Row 12--k1, purl to marker, sm
Repeat rows 9 to 12 until hat is desired size.
As you are knitting measure from the center to one of the markers. To fit actual head measurements of 16 (18, 20, 22, 24)inches. This measurement shoud be 2.5 (2.75, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75) inches.
When you have the correct size, count the stitches between the markers and remember this number. Continue knitting until diameter of top of hat is 9(10, 10, 11, 12) inches. Complete 3 remaining rows after last increase and work 4 more rows even without increases. You can increase the fullness of the larger sizes by working another 4 rows even if desired. Now begin your decreases.
Decrease row 1—k1, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before marker, skp, sm
Decrease row 2—k1, purl to marker, sm
Decrease row 3—knit
Decrease row 4--k1, purl to marker, sm
When the number of stitches between markers is the same as it was when you measured for sizing, (that number I told you to remember) switch to needle two sizes smaller and work in garter stitch (knit one row, purl one row) until you have desired number of ridges in band. (usually 3 or 4) , bind off. Work in 2 yarn tails from the beginning and the end and you are finished.

Enjoy,
fran

2006-02-18T08:45:00.000-08:00

Hello, I'm trying to get this established but having a terrible time........Help.......