martian mischief

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Location: Athens, Georgia, United States

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Zip Up The Back Sweater comments:

It is your knitting gauge rather than the size of yarn you use that determines size. I use the knitting standards sizing charts. So I ran a few numbers with this pattern, which is almost my favorite. I make a few changes in it.

http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/babyswezipback.ht

As written, it is a size 12 month size sweater, that is 6 st. and 7.5 rows per inch.

At 5.5 stitches per inch, it is a size 18 mo.
At 5 stitches per inch, it is a size 24 months.
Primary difference between a 24 month and a size 2 is in length.

Now for the lengths use ruler measurements rather than the number of rows.

length to underarm, (underarm to waist) for a size 12 mo. is 3.5 and (3.5)
for size 18 mo is 4 and (4)
for size 2 is 4.5 and (4) Ahhhh.... go ahead, make it a 4.5

On the average another 2 inches is added to the length of a sweater for below the waist and then ribbing is added.

So now for your yarn, baby yarn will make a delicate light weight sweater, sport weight will make an average weight sweater with a soft hand. Worsted weight will make a tighter knit, warmer sweater. Choose whatever one you want and then work on your correct stitches per inch.

Note: difference between a 18 mo and a size 2 is 2 inches around the chest and 1 inch in back waist length. 3 inches in sleeve length.

Changes I make to pattern: knit until center front piece is 10.5 inches across. This will lower armholes about 1/2 inch. Measure for sleeve from center back down to cuff. Make it 17 inches and then add a 2 to 3 inch cuff. This will allow you to fold up the cuff at first and then lower it as the child grows. Benefit--another year of wear. This is the size being worn in the photo of my great grandbaby.

Other changes: I use a 2 stitch garter band on both sides of the zipper. Stitch the zipper in by hand with your stitches at the back of the 2 stitch band. Use a back stitch or picking method. This is the exact amount needed to cover the metal part of the zipper and help eliminate the yarn catching in the zipper. I also put a stitch between the increases along the raglan lines. That's just because I like it that way. Please note: the sweater in the picture is sewn together incorrectly. Match the sides of the sweater on both sides of the zipper. One side should not be longer than the other.

How do I know this stuff? You start with 3 children, then you add 12 grandchildren and follow up with 5 great grandchildren. I've knit more sweaters than I can count.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Here is the pattern I promised you. I will add modifications later. Since today is my birthday, consider it a birthday gift. There is a picture on my 1/21 /07 post, scroll down. I put a teddy bear and pocket on that one and made matching pants.


Zip up the back hoodie


Universal directions for sizes from infant to adult male. (infant, toddler, child, (woman, man, x lge) or 14, 16, 18, (20, 22, 24) inch head sizes)


Measurements needed:


Circumference of head

Circumference of chest at widest part

Back length from neck to waist

Sleeve length from center of neck, across back, down arm with elbow bent to small bone on outside of wrist.


Get yarn estimate for your size from http://www.fiber2yarn.com/info/how_much_yarn.htm add 1 skein for hood.

Purchase zipper before you start, you may have to adjust pattern depending on zipper.length

4 markers

ruler, tape measure can be used but hard ruler is more accurate.

2 sets of needles after sizes determined from gauge swatch

yarn needle for burying yarn tails.

Sewing needle for sewing in zipper.length

thread or yarn for sewing in zipper


Prepare your gauge swatch in stockinette stitch with needles desired. When you have a fabric you like with your yarn, write down the stitches per inch. You will need the needle size you used for your gauge swatch and needles 2 sizes smaller.


Use needles 2 sizes smaller than you used for gauge swatch and cast on head size times stitches per inch. This number should be divisible by 4 plus 2 extra stitches.

Work in k2, p2 ribing for 1 to 2 inches 1, 1, 1 ½ , (1 ½, 2, 2)

Continue in following sequence for pattern:

  1. k10, rib to last 10 stitches, k10

  2. p10, rib to last 10 stitches, p 10

  3. k10, rib to last 10 stitches, k10

  4. k12, rib to last 12 stitches, k12

  5. p12, rib to last 12 stitches p12

  6. k12, rib to last 12 stitches, k12


Continue in these 3 row sequences adding 2 stitches to the knitting section on each end until you have only 2 stitches remaining in ribbed pattern. End on wrong side row, Bind off loosely. You will have 1 stitch remaining on needle.


Pick up5, 6, 7, (7, 8, 8) inches of stitches (stitches per inch from gauge times No. of inches) along side of hood, cast on 2 inches for under the chin, pick up same number of stitches on other side of hood.


Work 1, 1 ½, 1 ½, (2, 2, 2,) inches of ribbing switch to larger size of needles.


Divide stitches into back, sleeve, front, sleeve, back. That is--knit 1/6 of stitches, place marker, knit 1/6 of stitches, place marker, knit 1/3 of stitches, place marker, knit 1/6 of stitches, place marker, knit last 1/6 of stitches.


First row and all subsequent purl rows—k2, purl across to last 2 stitches, k2

Second row *knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1*repeat for a total of 4 times then knit to end


Repeat these 2 rows until measurement across front equals ½ of chest measurement ending with a purl row.


On the next row, knit to marker, drop all markers as you come to them. Slip sleeve stitches on a scrap piece of yarn. Stitch holders will stretch out end stitches so I do not recommend them for this sweater. I just put smooth contrast yarn on yan needle and run it through, tying the ends together loosely.


Cast on 1, 1 ½, 1 ½, (2, 2, 2) inches of stitches under arm, knit across back to next marker, drop marker and place second sleeve on yarn stitch holder, cast on same number of stitches as on first underarm, knit to end.


Continue alternating k 1 row, and k2 stitches, purl to last 2 stitches and k 2 stitches until measurement from base of neck (below ribbing) to bottom is same as back length measurement. Now you will need to add the number of inches below the waist you want for your sweater. Some averages are 2, 2, 3, (4, 6, 6)

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 1, 1 ½, 2, (2, 3, 3) inches bind off


Place sleeves back on needles and pick up stitches on those stitches you cast on under the arms. If necessary, pick up extra stitches in the corners to avoid holes. These extra stitches can be decreased on the next row.

For a full sleeve (recommended for infants, toddlers, and children) knit sleeve to length minus one inch, work one row of k2 together, work k2, p2 ribbing for 3 inches. This gives them a little more grow room on childrens sweaters and will fit adult sweaters.


For a tapered sleeve; determine the size of your wrist times stitches per inch. Subtract this number from the total number of sleeve stitches to determine how many stitches you will need to decrease. Divide this decrease number by 2 to determine how many decrease rows you will need. Measure sweater from center back to end of sleeve while it is on yarn markers, and subtract this from your total sleeve length above. The difference will tell you how many inches you have left to knit. Divide this number by the total number of decrease rows you will have to make. This will tell you the spacing of the decrease rows. In most cases this is around 2 inches. OR......try the program below to do the work for you. If you are not familiar with it, you are in for a treat.


http://www.cara4webshopping.com/freebies_for_fun/knitcomp.htm


Place a marker ar the center under the arms and work in stockinette stitch.

Decrease row: knit to one stitch before marker, k2 tog through back side (needle from right to left), k1, slip marker, k1, k2 together the usual way (needle from left to right), finish row.


When sleeve is worked to length, work 3 inches of k2, p2 ribbing and bind off loosely.


Bury yarn tails


Inserting zipper Close the zipper. Pin zipper in place making sure that ribbing matches across the zipper. If you want the pixie look stretch hood stitches slightly at the top. If you want to avoid pixie look gather stitches at top of hood slightly. Alternately, stitch closed an inch or two at the top of the hood and insert the zipper below the short seam. When zipper is pinned into place......BASTE it. I just use contrast yarn and yarn needle for basting. Now nothing will slip and you can get rid of those sticky pins and concentrate on your stitches. Open up the zipper. Using a back stitch carefully stitch zipper into place with about 4 stitches showing on top per inch and 4 equal spaces showing on top per inch. (bring needle up from inside to outside, insert needle down 1/8 inch behind where you brought needle up, bring needle up ¼ inch in front of this stitch and repeat** I use yarn, matching sewing thread or embroidery thread to do this. Embroidery thread is very strong and comes in over 350 colors. It comes 10 yards in a skein which is enough.


Oops I didn't tell you to sew up the seams. That's because there are none. If you wish you can work sleeves on straight needles and then you will have a seam to sew up. You can also knit this sweater and simply sew up the back seam instead of putting in a zipper or switch it to total circular knitting after stitching up the back of the hood. In those cases I would eliminate the 2 stitch garter rows along the center back.


enjoy